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Thundercraker's Sig making guide!!!!

Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:45 pm

[center] Thundercraker’s Sig Making for Dummies (in Photoshop CS+)  [/center]

Yep, it’s your friendly neighborhood Art team here bringing you this weekly updated guide to making sigs an abbreviation for signatures. These random or meaningful pieces of art are displayed after every post a user makes…making them unique. The people with the hippest sigs are remembered…lol, maybe not but it’s cool. However, instead of simply requesting sigs I decided that it would be much more fun to enable people to make their OWN sigs eh? Now let’s move on…

LESSON ONE: THE BASICS AND RENDER EXTRACTION

Note: Never forget the shortcut for redo Ctrl+Alt+Z!!!!!!

This week’s section is the basics and render-extraction. Now by render, I mean a picture that you may want to put in a sig. However, good renders are hard to come by so you’ll probably end up extracting it from another picture. First off, start by going to the menu bar (located at the top of the screen) File>New (the shortcut key is Ctrl+N). Now you can select the following fields. But the basics width and height are enough. Note that most sigs are around 150 px tall and 400 px wide (minimum). You can make it bigger but many sites have a sig size limit.

(Leave the resolution at 72…it good enough for web graphics. Also toggle the color modes for color and black and white. Leave CMYK, this setting is for press printing and represent Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black)

The size the image can easily be manipulated after creation by going to Image>Image size or Image>Canvas size .

If you have gotten the gang of this then your 1% done.^^

Now on to render extraction, first observe the picture here.

It is of Nina Wang from Mai-otome. Sadly it is NOT a render why? Because of the background and the writing... So we need to separate her from the rest of the picture. There are many tools for this purpose, we will discuss the more advance feature of these tools later on….

Note: Tools can be toggled on and off by going to Windows>Tools

1. The selection tool (M *shortcut*)

The selection tool is the tool on the top right of the toolbox. This is the most basic selection tool. Right clicking the icon will bring out 4 sub options that essentially do the same thing so don’t bother with anything other than the first two, namely Rectangle and Elliptical Selection tool . I think it’s pretty obvious how they differ…

2. The Lasso tool (L)

These are by far the most accurate/useable selection tools. Right clicking on the icon will display 3 sub tools. The Lasso too l is just that, manually select and area pretty much like painting. The Polygonal Lasso tool , this is the same only that you get to specify a polygonal shape. (An enclosed shape based on straight lines that have more than 4 sides). This is quite good if you want to select a shape that is made of straight lines. Lastly, the Magnetic Lasso tool . This is the best of all the lasso tools, and the only way to go for me. The magnetic lasso tools works like the normal lasso tool only that the selection will stick to the edge of 2 contrasting colors. (Don’t worry if you didn’t get that…I’ll show you later)

3. The Magic Wand Tool (W)

This tool, also one of my favorites allows the user to select an area that has similar color. The tolerance at the top of the screen can be adjusted with a value between 1-99. Lowering this value will make the tool more sensitive to any contrast in the color resulting in more accurate selections.

Here is how to go about extracting Nina…

Step 1: Open the image (after having it downloaded from the web) This can be done by File>Open or Ctrl+O

Step 2: Select the magnetic lasso tool (right click on the lasso tool and select Magnetic lasso tool)

Step 3: Proceed to carefully run the lasso along Nina's body. If you mess up prees the backspace key to go back one point. (The dots on the line) Click the mouse to mark a point manually. Double clicking will mess it up so just dont do it...

Step 4: Completely select her. Now here's a neat trick: the 4 buttons shown below are available for any selection tool. They are from left to right New selection (discards the current selection and starts a new one), Add to selection (adds a new selection to the current one), Subtract from Selection (erases the new selection from the current one)...no need for the last one though^^

Step 5: Continue until you have what you want. Then copy (Ctrl+C) and open a new file (adjust the size to the desired size) then paste (Ctrl+Z)

FINAL STEP!!: After you have done that you can transform it's size by using the transform tool (Ctrl+T). After that select the blur tool

and blur out the edges a bit just for finesse.

That about it for this lesson. Play around with it.....
[center]!END OF LESON ONE![/center]

=====================================================

I know, I know, this is supposed to be a weekly Sig guide- but what the hey! I had a holiday on Monday and time to kill^^. Though taking out renders is actually quite advance stuff, I decided to keep that in the first lesson as it is the most important aspect of sig making. A sig is based around one or more central pictures. Today, you’ll learn about fancying up the background- the next step.

MINI LESSON: LAYERS

Layers are the most fundamental ways of separating various parts of a picture. The box here in this pic shows the various layers for a certain picture. These layers effectively separate any objects in the canvas. Selecting the layers will allow you to select/move anything in that particular layer. Drag a layer up or down will place the layer below or above the others. REMEMBER: Layers at the top will block layers below it unless a transparency has been specified.

Look at this

The Opacity (in red) is the transparency control. Decreasing it will make the whole layer see-through, like glass. Clicking the drop down (in blue) will bring out various transparency options. (To be discussed later). The eye (in yellow) toggles the layer’s visibility. If you press it, the layer will become invisible, allowing for easier modification of the layers below it. At the bottom are 6 buttons. Right now, only 2 both at the far right are important. The 2nd most far right is the new layer option . It creates a new layer: I recommend making a new layer for every object in your canvas. And to the far right is the d elete layer tool . Drag a layer on top of it to delete the entire layer. (Note: Dragging a layer on top of the new layer button will create a copy of that layer.) Lastly if you want to join 2 layers together go to Layer>Merge Layer at the Menu bar or press Ctrl+E .

LESSON 2: BACK AND FOREGROUND COLORS AND BRUSHES

Pfft. This is too easy…if that’s what you’re thinking then think again. These seemingly easy things can sometimes mess you up. As you can see below, I have marked the back and foreground selection area. To change the foreground color, click on the box in front and a screen will come up.

As you can see there are a multitude of options. HSB -> Hue Saturation Brightness, RGB -> Red Green Blue and CMYK has been explained earlier. Anyway, the easiest way to picking a good color is to drag the mouse along the gradient and see which color is best. Also the field at the bottom with the value EB3636 is the web color picker. This hexadecimal value represents a color that can be interpreted in your web-browser (IE: #000000 is black as it represents 0 red, 0 blue and 0 yellow) .

Note the small check box that says only web colors. Checking it will result in the gradient of color being drastically reduced, but the color present will be the only supported by all-web browsers. This is normally for web design- which I would love to teach you, but that’s another story…^^.



Brushes:

Brushes are the fundamental tools of any graphics editing program. These can come in a variety of flavors.

Firstly, select the brush tool.

Right clicking it will bring up 2 sub tools, the brush and pencil tool. I don’t think the pencil needs any introduction. Now after selecting the brush you can right click anywhere on the canvas (the white part or essentially the picture you are making) to bring up the brush controls here you can edit the master diameter which control’s the brush’s size. Hardness which determines how opaque the paint will be and of course the different brush types.

Before going any further, I suggest you play around with the various brushes available for at least 1 minute)
[hr]

Here, I will teach you how to install and load custom brushes. Firstly, you’ll need to find some downloadable brushes. These are easy to find- just google them up. Here’s a sample brush set for you to try out.

Grunge Scratch Brushes

Once it has been downloaded, unzip it if it is compressed. Then copy it and open the directory where Photoshop is installed. Usually this directory is something like C:\Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop CS. Here C:\ represents your root drive (where the OS is installed) After this find the folder that says Presets inside which is another folder called Brushes. Paste the brush file (usually .abr) there and you’re good.

BUT WAIT! I CANT SEE THE BRUSHES IN THE BRUSH CONTROLS!! True. You can’t- until you load them. Look at the brush controls again and notice the small button with an arrow on it (This button is circled in red in the pic above) . Click it and a drop down window will pop up. Click on the load brushes and then find your brush set and click open. WALAH! There you have it. The brush is now loaded. If you want to get the original brushes back then click on the arrow again and select reset brushes.

Now is when the fore and background colors come in handy. Some brushes have 2 layers of color and yes you guessed it- it uses the specified foreground and background colors. Also most brushes will only use the foreground color. Play around with these brushes to create some awesome backgrounds for your sig!!

Samples: These were created using nothing but the rectangle selection tool and paint brushes.

1.

This one is prety straight forward. I used the brush ka_splat for the splats and the rectangle selection tool + foreground (Alt+Backspace) for the rectangle.

2.

I used the brushes grunge_circles for the effect with some transperancy. Also the green border was created by first selecting a rectangle and then selecting a smaller one with the subtract from selection selected.

3.

This was the easiest. I simply used the winter_breeze brushes for this.

Note: Custom brushes are very big (for use in wallpapers etc) so you will have to adjust the size before use.

!END OF LESSON 2!

=====================================================

Lesson 3: Advanced Effects

Accept it…you wanna have some real whacked out effects on your sig- everyone does. And guess what? It’s not even that hard! Lets get to it now. Note that almost all of Photoshop’s effects are found in the Filter tab in the menu bar. I make a short synopsis of all of the effects.

Liquify:

This basically mashes up a part of the image: To do this go to Filter>Liquify after which a window will come up. There is no need for you to know anything more than the basics of liquification here. You can adjust the brush size from the panel on the right, other than this, it is pretty straight forward.

Pattern Maker:

The only times you will actually use this is to make a wacked out background. Go to Filter>Pattern Maker (Alt + Shift + Ctrl +X). A window will come up. Now you can select an area of the image at hand then press the generate button. A pattern will be created out of whatever you had selected.

Artistic effects: If I went around explaining everything in here it would probably take me a year so play around with these yourself.

Okay you can just play around with the other minor effects to your hearts content. However, below we will discuss a few of the more frequently used and important effects. These are:

- Blurs: Under blurs come various blur types (Gaussian, Radial, Smart etc)
- Renders: Don’t be fooled by the name…anyways you get lighting effects, clouds, lens flare under this one.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay let get down to business. Here we will be making a sig that looks as it its spray painted on a wall. So first we need our wall. Here is the sample to be used:

Now, make a new file Photoshop. I will make this 450 px wide and 125 px tall. Now open the picture (provided you downloaded it) and use the selection tool to select a good part of it. Then copy it and paste it in your new canvas. Now we need a good render to use, for me, it is this DJ.

Use the method I taught in lesson 1 to extract the DJ, and only the DJ out of the picture. Now once that is done go to Image>Adjustment>Desaturate . Now what we want is to make the DJ black and white. Now, if you click on Desaturate (Shift + Ctrl + U) , the color of the DJ will be taken away. Leaving this:

Now to create a nice effect paste the copied DJ again, this time enlarge him and Desaturate him and select the ‘Overlay’ as the transparency option. The transparency options can be changed by pressing the drop-down menu (in red).

Set this large DJ’s transparency to 50% and set the large DJ one layer below your main render.

By now your sig should be something like this:

Back to the render: to give it a real graffiti effect go to Image>Adjustment>Threshold . Slide the slider to a lower value than 128. I used 98. Now as above, select the later transparency of the layer to ‘overlay’. Then go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and put a little bit of blur on the render. By now the sig should be somewhat like this:

For the paint overflow effect we will be using the ka_splat brushes found here:

http://files.filefront.com/ka05+splatabr/;6345763;/fileinfo.html

Remember to keep it on a separate layer below the render layer!! First use the magic wand tool on the layer with the render to choose the area around the DJ, this is so that we don’t paint underneath the DJ-since it will spoil the overlay effect. Now use the last brush in the set – set it to a small size and apply around the edges of the render and set it to ‘overlay’ as well. And there you have it- paint overflow. All you need now is some text. I downloaded a graffiti font from dafont.com.

http://www.dafont.com/search.php?psize=m&q=graffiti

Result:

Now to get the overlay effect on fonts you have to rasterize them. To do so, right click on the font layer on the layer tab and select ‘Rasterize Layer’ and your good. Once that is done, set the transparencies of both words to ‘overlay’. Now to get the effect of light coming at the wall from an angle select the layer with the wall and go to Filter>Render>Lighting Effects. Choose any effect you want, its all there spotlight, omni etc. Just drag the points to get the desired lighting effect.

DONE!!

Here's the final result-I applied the 'triple spotlight' lighting effect.

!END OF LESSON 3!

============================================================

OOC: (Out of Context): Gomenasai (Sorry)! For the long wait, the fact is I was so busy lately with an RPG site as well as making Orochi’s sig that I could not find the time to spare for this. And, Im doing this despite having an IGSCE Science exam tomorrow. I dedicate this short lesson to ghost who suggested it in the first place. I promise that the next lesson will be long and better!!



Lesson 4: Making your own brush

Okay in this lesson we will be learning to make brushes! (YAY!) Now the reason you want to learn this is that sometimes, you’ll want something unique: something you can call your own. In those times you’ll probably want to make a custom brush to make your signature more original. So here are the basics of making a custom brush.



Anyways, making a brush is very easy. First open a new canvas/file be sure to set this canvas’s color mode to gray scale. If you forgot to do it, then go to Image>Mode>Grayscale , from where, the canvas can be set to an 8-bit gray scale. This is because all of Photoshop’s brushes are grayscale. Now take the desired picture you want to turn into a brush. Here I am using this emblem of HiMEs.

Image>Mode>Grayscale....

Edit>Define Brush Preset (You will be asked to name the brush)

Bring out the brush selection and there it is!

Use your new brush!!

I have simply copy pasted the whole picture into the canvas, there is no need to delete the white parts to make the picture transparent. This is because Photoshop will automatically use the white parts of the picture as transparent areas. All you need to do is to make sure that the area you don’t need are 100% white. ITS AS EASY AS THAT!!

------------
Here are a few methods by which you can make the picture in question suitable for you brush set. Here I will show you how to go around it.

Observe this fine specimen of a woman . Now there is quite a lot of detail so you may want to reduce something. Instead of grabbing your eraser use the adjustment tool which can be found in (you guessed it) Image>Adjustment. Now go to Image>Mode>Grayscale . Click yes and the picture will be transformed into a black and white picture. This makes it WAY easier to adjust (and the fact that Photoshop inly supports black and white images for brushes is there) Anyways, go to Image>Adjustment>Levels . Now let me give you a whats what. Look at the white and black sliders with the grey one in the middle (the upper slider). By dragging the white colder to the middle, you increase the whiteness of the image and the same goes for the black slider. Bringing both of these closer results in a strong black to white contrast – perfect for brushes.

Now go to Image>Adjustment>Curve , by dragging the curve a bit upwards, the picture becomes lighter (whiter) and dragging it down makes it blacker.

Once you think it’s ready, just go to Edit>Define brush preset and your good to go. Just take up the brush tool in a new window and right click to select the brush type. Scroll to the bottom and your brush will be waiting for you!

If you want to make a brush pack then keep making brushe, then after you have the required number, right click with the brush tool to bring out the brush selection. Then click the teeny arrow there to bring out the menu. From here select ‘ Save Brushes… ’ and its done. If you want to delete unneeded brushes. (In the brush selection) hold alt, and the pointer will change to a scissor then click on whichever brushes you want to delete.

!END OF LESSON!

Next Time : Finally!! C4D renders!

===================================================

LESSON 5: C4D Renders AKA Fractals, C4Ds

Well, well, I’ve been out of action for some time due to exams- speaking of which I have one coming up on Thursday. However, circumstances demand that I update this guide today on multiple requests. And cases of people calling C4D renders “weird light thingies” . ^__^

Okay, now let start a brief introduction into C4D renders. Basically these are abstract 3D art created via 3D art programs (Corel etc etc, too lazy to look them up), needless to say, this 3D images have been flattened (made into 2D). Even so, they look ultra cool just by themselves (on desktops). But wouldn’t it be sooo much cooler to have them in your sigs? That’s exactly what we will learn today. Also, the sig featured below will be my official sig for some time. If you master it then you can proudly say “My sig is = thundercraker’s sig!” (Now wouldn’t that be something!)

Of course they may NOT be in your desired colors. For that we have the hue and Saturation controls. Depicted below. The controls are pretty simple. The hue is just that: it controls the hue or color of the picture as a whole and saturation controls the strength of the hue. Lightness controls how bright the hue should be. (Play around with the until you think the color is just right.

I will be making a sig featuring Ayanami Rei for Neon Genesis Evangelion! (My new favorite anime completely due to the super cool and emo theme song ‘Beautiful World’)

LOL

Well anyways, I’m going to be using this render of her:

Also, I will be using this fractal render (courtesy planet renders) So there you have it. These are a basic building block of our sig^^. So on with the show –

(I’ve skipped rudimentary step such as make a mew canvas and such)

So, as you probably see- I’ve done away with the text on top thanks to these tools:
1. Magnetic Lasso Tool
2. Magic Wand tool
(You have already been taught how to do this in lesson 1)

So after this copy and paste the C4D Render (in our case it is the fractal render: now these two are almost the same thing – since they basically do the same job) but you can search, find and download many C4D + fractal renders in sites such as planet renders.

Select + paste the render into your pic, resize as required.

Since it is meant to be BACKGROUND layer, put it at the bottom of everything! Its already looking kewl ain’t it?

Also to get the other render to be transparent I used the transparency option (in Screen mode) at 20%. (btw: transparency has been introduced to you in earlier chapters)

Now comes the fun part – I googled up a picture of outer space – beautiful., Now implement this in your sig just like the fractal render from earlier:

Note: DO THIS ON A SEPARATE LAYER

Okay now lets get some penning done. Penning is the name given to the curved lines around the render. For this select the Pen tool and create a straight line. After this choose the add anchor tool and add up to 4 new points on the line. Then use the Direct Selection tool to drag these points to alternating sides to create the curved lines around Rei.

After this set your brush to a normal 4 pixel round brush and right click the path (while the Direct Selection is selected) and choose Stroke Path… You may or may not want to apply ‘Stimulate Pressure’ which makes the stroke like a REAL paintbrush stroke, namely weak around the edges.

After the red stroke has been made go to the layers tab and right click the pen layer. And select ‘Blending Options’ Apply Outer glow and maybe even other effects. (Edit it to your desire, the color and strength of the glow can all be manipulated)

See? Its done! Anyways, now you want to erase alternate lines on the curve to make it appear that the curve is winding around the render.

TO

Now I wanted to make the globe on Rei’s hand have sheen. (metallic luster) So I took the pen tool and made a crescent path around the globe’s sides. Then I used the select path option. (Go to the Paths tabs near the layers and press Ctrl and click it)

Now just fill it with white and smudge the edges. After that I put a lens flare on the globe. (Go to Filters>Render>Lighting Flare ) So now it has a shining effect.

FINALLY! To add the name on one of the white curves (BTW: the white curves are simply a large brush <- I have introduced you to brushes already. Just so you know that brush is from the winter breeze pack found on deviant art – a link to which is provided in lesson 1 or 2.)

Make a path along the curve. Then select the text tool but use it on top of the path – the text will automatically wrap around the path.

Yeah an that’s about it!

NEXT LESSON: The author is on a hiatus due to examinations!!!

Please do PM him with ideas for the next chapter.

===============================

Lesson 6: Typography

First, off sigs, are just that: pictures with a user’s username written on it. And thus the text on the sig, completely affects the over all effect of the sig. For this purpose let’s use a desktop background that I made and turn it into a sig! (With text effects in the right places) I will also be showing you other things as well.

Font – Fonts are the core of any typography. Without good fonts, you’ll be stuck in quicksand when it comes to actually writing your name on your sig. A few good sites to get fonts are www.freefonts.com (<-I guessed that but it’s bound to exist) www.dafont.com (now that’s real). Some fonts are sooo uber-cool that they’ll look nice if you just put it plainly without ay effects.

Basic Placing - Placing is indeed a very important thing for text. Some prime locations of for text are given here:
+--------------------------------------------------+
|Here..........................................here|
| |
|Here and there (if its big and bold).........there|
| |
|Here..........................................here|
+--------------------------------------------------+


Well I am very aware that ASCII sucks but it does the job well. Basically it’s now obvious that text is to be placed at the edges or side depending on how large and bold it is. Yes, placing text here is basic stuff but it still looks good. And that’s what matters people. Remember:

APPEAL > SKILL

(Appeal is greater than skill)

Now on to more advanced stuff.

Making the text latch on to a surface/render etc etc. This is actually so much easier than it sounds. Trust me!

First you will be to trace a path for your text to latch on to. So when making the path, try to trace the outline that you want to with the pen tool. This can basically done on any layer since the text will automatically have a layer of its own. Once an accurate path is drawn (as shown below in today’s one and only screenie)

One this is done select the text tool and simply click on the path and the path will become a type path, and the text will stick to the path like glue. However beware not to make the path bend at obscene angles as the text will become highly distorted. Of course if you want it that way…..

The Hybrid style text-

I named it that since renowned sig maker Reaper Hybrid is the most frequent user of this particular style. Instead of just plain writing, he goes for blending effects and transparency on the texts. You should already be aware of the transparency options from the previous lessons as well as blending effects. Various effects such as the Outer glow effect can make text stand out – as shown below:

(btw there aint no outer glow, but big and bold!)

Of course as with C4D renders you can under close inspection notice that his text always has some sort of transparency allowing for the background to show. I’m placing my bet on the ‘screen’ or the ‘overlay’ mode as they allow for the foreground to be effectively affected by the background of the picture.

Well there isn’t that much to it, so on to the next deal: scan lines. Really simple stuff. For horizontal scan lines make a 1w X 2h pixel canvas and simply color one half black (colors are not limited to that of course) leaving the other white like so. (btw, you need to zoom in a lot: 1600%)

Now goto Edit>Define Pattern once that is done you can use the pattern you just created to make scan lines.

Select an area and then take the selection tool, right click on it. You should now bring the tab down and select Pattern and select the patter you created earlier.

There you have it. And now made the layer transparent so that the stuff below is visible. You can use any mode, but I recommend ‘screen’ above the others.

To make diagonal scan lines, the process is the same, but instead of the first pattern you must make a new pattern. Make a 3X3 pixel canvas and put the following pixels black:

Done.

NOTICE: THE AUTHOR OF THIS TUTORIAL IS GOING ON AN EXTENDED HIATUS SO AS TO CONTINUE HIS FANFIC – here.
_________________

My Sig Making for Dummies Guide!! (@ Lesson 5) UPDATED!! (29th November)

My screenshot making guide!! (@ Lesson 3) UPDATED!! (31st Oct)

My Fanfic - Aeon of Strife - Chapter 1

Last edited by thundercraker on Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:21 pm; edited 9 times in total

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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:04 pm

nice job, something that could help is maybe link to some youtube videos about this, I know there are a bunch oh Photoshop tutorials

I like this, but I don't think that it will stop people from requesting sigs XD

looking forward to lesson 2

edit: who tf voted no?
_________________
My Guide to Writing a Guide Click Me Baby, One More Time

I inspired a posting rule ftw

Thanks to markues1775 for the awesome sig!

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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:11 pm

i know ppl will still request but at least the sig makes will get some rest!^^ Good idea about the videos..will work on it. thanx. XD
_________________

My Sig Making for Dummies Guide!! (@ Lesson 5) UPDATED!! (29th November)

My screenshot making guide!! (@ Lesson 3) UPDATED!! (31st Oct)

My Fanfic - Aeon of Strife - Chapter 1

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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:31 am

It doesn't stop sig requests, but it at least helps the beginner sig makers.
_________________

Thanks Parkguy for making this awesome sig.

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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:39 am

ive been trying to make a good sig with ursa and niax on it but i just keep making small as mistakes and give up lol... and i dont wana disurb pro sig makers, but i might ask someone soon cos im getting really pissed off at it ..
_________________
Have you ever seen 2 shooting stars hit each other??

I HAVE AND IT FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!!!

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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:01 am

UPDATED!!
_________________

My Sig Making for Dummies Guide!! (@ Lesson 5) UPDATED!! (29th November)

My screenshot making guide!! (@ Lesson 3) UPDATED!! (31st Oct)

My Fanfic - Aeon of Strife - Chapter 1

Last edited by thundercraker on Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:46 am; edited 1 time in total

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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:53 am

A correction I would like to make. Splat brushes alone or circle brushes are not grunge. Grunge basically is really messy and works if you combine many splat brushes on different layers and maybe smudge them.

Alone, they are vector art.
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Author of The Brothers Trilogy
Featured Guide of the Month Organizer

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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 11:52 am

i meant that the name of the brush itself is grunge_brushes...that work isn't grunge at all.
_________________

My Sig Making for Dummies Guide!! (@ Lesson 5) UPDATED!! (29th November)

My screenshot making guide!! (@ Lesson 3) UPDATED!! (31st Oct)

My Fanfic - Aeon of Strife - Chapter 1

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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:01 pm

Hmm I see. Oh and you might want to add. Another good source for brushes, stamps, textures and those sort of things is:

http://www.deviantart.com

Fonts here:

http://www.dafont.com

Good renders from:

http://www.planetrenders.com

These are just some links you might want to add. I dunno...I used these since i started.
_________________

Author of The Brothers Trilogy
Featured Guide of the Month Organizer

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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:05 pm

Updated! look above! (first post)
_________________

My Sig Making for Dummies Guide!! (@ Lesson 5) UPDATED!! (29th November)

My screenshot making guide!! (@ Lesson 3) UPDATED!! (31st Oct)

My Fanfic - Aeon of Strife - Chapter 1

Last edited by thundercraker on Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:48 am; edited 1 time in total

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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:13 pm

hey this is really good but its too simple (no offense intended)
well to all the sigmakers out there, check out this site:
http://www.pixel2life.com/tutorials/adobe_photoshop/forum_sigs/
tells u really great effects ^^
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i cant make any dota sigs!! my screenshots dont save!! so PLS DONT ASK ME FOR DOTA SIGS
Bara guide pending. finished it at last !

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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:23 pm

I'm thinking about writing a tutorial for making sigs in Microsoft Paint.

Check out my sig, it's like you are right there in the heat of the battle. You can feel what each hero is thinking and can taste the magic in the air. Real artists, like me, are all about bringing a scene to life with attention to detail.

If you want advice on drawing techniques I may be able to help if I have time.

Remember: practice makes perfect. So keep on chugging along and one day I'm sure you will be as good as me (almost).
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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:23 pm

nce!
^_^
thx for the info!
^_^
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thx my friend for this